One of the most difficult decisions when building out my Croatia itinerary was which island to make our home base. There are more than 1000 islands in Croatia, 48 of which are inhabited, and I was eager to learn about each and every one of them before making a decision.
After hours of research, I finally settled on the island of Vis.
Vis is the furthest inhabited island from the Croatian coastline. Nearly halfway to Italy across the Adriatic, it requires a 90-minute ferry from Split.
But Vis checked every box. There are just enough things to do for visitors while still maintaining its authenticity and laid-back vibe. It’s the perfect size to explore in its entirety by boat, car, or motor scooter. The hidden beaches of Vis, many of which are only accessible by boat, are arguably the best in Croatia. And the streets aren’t nearly as packed with tourists compared to places like Hvar and Brac.
Reading reviews of different Croatian islands really helped me settle on choosing Vis. To return the favor and help other travelers who are trying to craft their perfect Croatia itinerary, here’s a full guide on what Vis has to offer, why it’s the best Croatian island, what there is to do on Vis, and things to know before you go.
The History of Vis: From Abandoned to Adored
Vis has a bit of a chaotic history. The island has been controlled by Italy, the Republic of Venice, the Austrian Empire, and even Britain in recent centuries.
Finally, in 1921 the Yugoslav state took control of Vis. Still, visitors were not allowed on the islands until 1991, as it was routinely used for military purposes. The island’s military past is still evident when visiting, as it’s still dotted with forts, cannons, and even a network of underground tunnels. Vis’s location as Croatia’s furthest populated island from the mainland made it a really important base for several past wars.
Once Vis was declared “open,” it didn’t take long for Croatians and foreigners alike to jump at the opportunity to both visit and claim property. This beautiful island, though small, has a fairly diverse terrain. The edges of Vis right along the coastline are pretty mountainous and hilly; you’d never know that the central part of the island is comprised of relatively flat land boasting a perfect climate and terrain for cultivating wine.
Komiza vs. Vis Town
There are two small main settlements on Vis: Komiza and Vis Town.
Vis Town, facing the Croatian mainland, is where more of the action lies, with numerous restaurants, bars, and cafes. The ferries from Split and Hvar dock in Vis Town.
Komiza, facing westward looking toward Italy, is a 20-to-25-minute drive across the island from Vis Town. It’s a calmer town, but there are enough cafes and restaurants to warrant staying on Komiza for those looking for a quieter area. I recommend Vis Town since it felt like there was just the right amount of action. Plus, all of the rental agencies for scooters, boats, bikes, and cars (which are unnecessary on Vis), are located in Vis Town. The very best restaurants and ice cream shops are also in Vis Town.
Both towns boast plenty of 1,000-year-old stone buildings right on the water with a maze of narrow streets and alleyways webbing in between. It’s no surprise that Mamma Mia 2 was filmed on Vis given the medieval look and feel of the island that remains today.
One local restaurant owner told me that Komiza residents and Vis Town residents can actually tell each other apart by their accents and mannerisms. Komiza locals have an Italian twang in their Croatian accent (as it faces Italy and has a touch more Italian influence). Meanwhile, families who’ve been living on Vis for generations mostly have ancestors who arrived from Split, so no accent!
Where to Stay on Vis
AirBnB has no doubt taken over Vis. We stayed at a sensational waterfront AirBnB that came out to each of our group paying just a little over $100 per night, which was a bargain.
There are a handful of boutique hotels in Vis Town, such as Hotel San Giorgio, and a couple in Bisevo, like Villa Mare Komiza, but these are limited and book up fast, especially for peak season.
There are also many apartments available for rent, which you can explore on sites like Booking.com.
A Wine Lover’s Paradise
You wouldn’t think wine would be so important to the people on a tiny Croatian island, but it is here on Vis.
Family-owned vineyards on Vis have been cultivating wine for generations. Here, wine is as important as it is in the countryside of France or Napa. The sandy soil makes for really rich, flavorful flavors.
Red and white grapes are both grown on Vis. The sandy soil makes for really rich, flavorful flavors. You can sample these flavors and walk the vineyards at popular spots such as:
- Vidovic Family Winery
- Vislander
- Vinarija Lipanovic
- Senjanovic Vina
- Roki Winery & Restaurant
Where to Eat on Vis
Vis is home to a surprisingly high number of quality restaurants for an island with only a few thousand permanent residents.
Some of my favorite restaurants on Vis include:
- Kod Paveta
- Lola Konoba & Bar
- Roki’s Winery & Restaurant
- Restoran Pojoda
- Lambik Bar & Bistro
These are also some solid pizza spots on Vis, including Pizzeria Charlie Vis and Pizzeria Karijola. Remember that there’s some Italian influence on this island, and it’s reflected in the food on Vis.
Best Things to Do on Vis Island
So what makes Vis the best island in Croatia to visit?
Since it’s one of the smaller Croatian islands, you can really get to know Vis in your time on the island. But don’t let the size fool you! There’s just as much to do on Vis as any other island, and in my opinion, the beaches, food scene, and hiking on Vis are hard to top. Compared to Hvar, the most popular Croatian island to visit, it’s a bit cheaper and significantly less crowded.
I stayed on Vis for 4 days. Here are some of the things I’d recommend doing when on Vis:
Rent a Motor Scooter to Explore the Island
My time “scooting” around Vis was one of my all-time favorite activities. In fact, we enjoyed it so much that we rented scooters a second day.
If you don’t have experience driving a motor scooter, rest assured it’s easy to get the hang of after a few minutes.
Riding up the winding mountain that overlooks the town is a breathtaking experience. And just wait until you get to Komiza for the ride back down. The views were so stunning that we couldn’t help but get off the bike every couple of minutes for pictures.
There are cars and taxis on Vis, but they are unnecessarily expensive. If your group is capable of riding a motor scooter, know that it’s by far the best (and cheapest) option to get around Vis. It costs about $70 per day to rent and there are a plethora of options along the main walkway in the center of Vis Town to rent from in the mornings.
Rent a Boat with a Skipper
Several beaches on Vis are not accessible by foot or car. That means you’ll need to find a boat for hire.
Unless you have an international boating license, you’ll need to hire a skipper who will take you out on their boat. What’s nice is that, generally, they leave the itinerary up to you. Want to spend the whole day on the water just cruising? No problem. Want to visit a couple nearby islands and see the Blue Cave on Bisevo Island? They’ll happily take you. Want to beach-hop? They’ll know where to go.
Our guide took us to a couple of the best cliff-jumping spots as that’s always been a dream of mine to do in the Adriatic. In addition to hitting up some of the best beaches, he also took us to “Lovers Cove,” on an uninhabited island. I wish I could share a picture or video, but it was impossible to snag one as it required swimming underneath a cliff face to reach! After diving beneath the surface and swimming for five seconds or so below the cliff face, you’ll reach the hidden cove. Not for the faint of heart, but a memorable activity if you’re willing.
We used Boat Tour Vis, owned by a super friendly Split native named Denis. We had such a good time that we did a sunset cruise with Denis the following night.
Get Lost in the Narrow Streets of Vis Town
Vis Town is an idyllic place to stay for your holiday or vacation. It’s a maze of narrow streets in between ancient buildings. There’s no reason to have an agenda or map unless you’re walking to a dinner reservation. Walk around and you’ll undoubtedly stumble upon an inviting restaurant or a charming bakery or cafe.
Visit Fort George
Fort George is within walking distance of Vis Town. This fully restored British naval fort perched above the sea is now a tourist attraction, boasting a restaurant, outdoor bar and patio, museum, and event space.
We got there before the restaurant opened, so decided to sit outside on the beautiful patio over the water and down a couple of Aperol Spritzes.
If you’ve rented a scooter or plan on renting a scooter, I highly recommend scooting to Fort George as your first activity. It’s a great way to get the hang of scooting on flat roads before riding up the mountain.
Visit One of the Island’s Wineries
There are several family-owned and run vineyards on Vis, which is such a perk of such a small island. They’re located right in the middle of the island in between Komiza and Vis and are impossible to miss. You’ll ride past them on the only roads between the two towns. Roki’s Winery & Restaurant is the most well-known, though we stopped at Vidovic Winery and had a really nice experience as well. The owners were very welcoming. Vislander is another well-known winery worth visiting.
If you want a full winery tour with lunch included, I recommend calling ahead and booking advance. You might get lucky like we did and be able to arrive unannounced for a tasting and food, but play it safe and call ahead.
The climate on Vis is suitable for the growth of both red and white grapes. The red grape, Plavac Mali, and white grape, Vugava, are both indigenous to Vis.
Hike Down or Boat to Stiniva Beach
Stiniva Beach is not just the most well-known beach on Vis, but it’s actually been named one of the best islands in Croatia.
This is a one-of-a-kind beach. It lies in a tiny cove behind a narrow gap of water sandwiched in between jagged cliffs.
Most visitors choose to arrive via boat, but it’s also accessible by foot. Bring hiking shoes or running shoes at minimum for the steep 15-minute walk down to the beach. There’s a bar with food behind the beach open until 5:00 p.m..
A pro tip is to visit Stiniva Beach late morning to early afternoon if you want to catch the sunlight hitting the beach. By late afternoon, the sun has set below the mountain behind it.
Or you can get there as early as you want to ensure you avoid a crowd. Since Stiniva is fairly difficult to get to, it typically isn’t packed, but there’s sure to be a decent number of people during primetime hours, especially in the summer.
Boat to Pritiscina Beach
Pritiscina Beach is home to both a narrow cove surrounded 360 degrees by rock faces and a desolate pebble beach. This is one of those beaches you can only reach by boat, so make sure you tell your skipper that it’s a priority.
There wasn’t a single other person here when we arrived with our skipper on an early July afternoon, which explains why Pritiscina is such an ideal spot to drop your anchor and relax. You can walk on or get a suntan on one of the flat rocks paralleling the tiny cove, go for a swim in the crystal-clear water, or hang on the boat and turn that music all the way up.
Visit Blue Cave on Nearby Bisevo Island
Blue Cave is one of the most visited spots throughout all of Croatia’s islands. Another luxury of staying on Vis is that it’s the closest inhabited island to the cave, located on tiny Bisevo Island.
This spot attracts hordes of boats from a ton of nearby islands and even Split, hours away. You’ll likely have to wait in a line of boats to enter the cave, though having a private skipper can help you cut a good chunk of the line.
To be quite honest, I’m not sure Blue Cave is worth the €24 entry fee and the additional fee to your skipper to cut the line (or the €110 fee for a private Blue Cave tour if you choose to go that route). In fact, our skipper hinted it probably wasn’t worth it, as you’ll only spend 10 to 15 minutes inside the cave. However, if you want to see something as unique as this underwater, turqouise-colored cave, don’t let me hold you back!
Take in a Film at the Seaside Outdoor Theatre
This has to be one of the coolest movie theaters in the world. It’s no surprise that several scenes of Mamma Mia 2 were filmed around the theatre, which is located inside a stone building literally right on top of the water in Vis Town.
Weekly shows are listed right outside the theatre and on signs around town. Since Vis is so compact, you’ll probably walk past it without even realizing it. Everything from classics to comedies to recently released movies are shown here several nights a week that locals and tourists alike enjoy.
Our Air BnB was conveniently located right across the street. Note that there’s also a perfect swimming spot with a dock next to the theater that many travelers walk right past without realizing exists.
So There’s Things to Do in Vis, But Is it Worth Visiting?
I can’t recommend Vis highly enough. I’d actually recommend that instead of island hopping in Croatia, you dedicate a few days to getting to know Vis. It’s such a compact, yet interesting island that it can really leave a lasting impression on people who give it a chance for more than a day trip.
Whether you’re a history buff, a food buff, a hiker, or someone who just wants a perfect beach vacation on Croatia’s best island, Vis is well worth your time.
