Any road trip through Romania must include a drive across the stunning Transfagarasan Road. With sweeping switchbacks and jaw-dropping overlooks, it’s no surprise that an episode of Top Gear was filmed here in 2009.
The road was built in the 1970s under former dictator Nicolae Ceaucescu. At the time, it was designed to provide military vehicles a direct route across the Fagaras mountain range. (“Transfagarasan” literally translates to “across Fagaras”).
Now, it’s a popular tourist attraction and the most scenic drive in Romania.
I spent two days driving the Transfagarasan in July, hiking a few of the peaks paralleling the road and taking in the scenery. Though I’d done some research beforehand, I learned plenty during my time on the road that could help future visitors.
Driving the Transfagarasan Road: 9 Things to Know
Here are 10 of tips for driving the Transfagarasan to make your planning:
1. The Transfagarasan Is Closed About Half the Year
You won’t be able to drive the Transfagarasan outside of summer and early fall months, as the road is typically closed from mid-October to early June due to snowpack. This is the No. 1 thing you need to know if you’re visiting Transylvania in the winter months, or even late spring or fall.
Even if crews are able to clear the road, the weather can change so quickly between these months that sudden snowstorms can make for dangerous driving conditions.
If you’re visiting in June or October, check to make sure that it’s open before going.
2. Be Prepared to See Bears Along the Transfagarasan
Romania is home to the largest black bear population in Europe. Locals will tell you to be careful about bears, and the Transfagarasan in particular is a magnet for them. Unfortunately, they’ve become accustomed to tourists stopping to throw them food.
The area around Lake Vidraru is the hotspot for bears. We saw three separate bears within a few miles. It’s standard to slow down when you see them for the passenger(s) to snag a picture, but two rules: don’t stop in the middle of the road and don’t feed them.
3. The Best Hikes Along the Transfagarasan Start From Balea Lake
If you’re hiking around Balea Lake, you generally don’t need to worry about bear sightings since they rarely venture to these parts as it’s above the tree line.
For those looking to make a pitstop for a hike or two, Balea Lake is the starting point for many of the best hikes along the Transfagarasan. There are two paid parking lots, or you can park on the road if there’s a safe spot to do so.
Our Transfagarasan hiking journey was memorable, but not necessarily seamless. Attempt No. 1 was thwarted just as we summitted the first peak above the lake due to inclement weather. We decided to walk back down since there was a severe thunderstorm warning.
We returned to the same spot the next day, with the weather looking more optimistic. Unfortunately, a hailstorm came out of nowhere when we got to the exact same spot as the day beforehand. We decided to hunker down on the shores of Capra Lake before continuing on. Once the storm passed, we resumed hiking and crossed to the other side of the mountain pass. The views were breathtaking.
I’d recommend the Balea Lake – Capra Lake loop if you’re looking for a moderate, 2 to 3-hour hike. There are plenty of longer hikes in the area you can find on AllTrails.
4. Make Sure to Fuel-Up Your Car Before the Drive
I had about half-a-tank of gas for our second trek into the mountains, which I thought would be more than enough for 100km or so of driving for the day.
But the drive up was so steep that my fuel gauge was dropping faster than I’ve ever seen. Once we reached the highest point of the road, it looked like I barely had any fuel.
Fortunately, the gauge oddly began increasing as we started to drive downhill. This was a relief since there’s no gas station anywhere along the 100km-long Transfagarasan.
With this in mind, make sure to fill up your tank before the drive.
5. You Can Find Souvenirs, Food, and Drinks Around Balea Lake
Balea Lake is the main attraction along the road. Here, you’ll find countless vendors selling souvenirs, fruits and vegetables, and other snacks. There are also two restaurants next to the lake.
Balea Lac Restaurant had terrible reviews, so we went to Cabana Balea Lac. The food at Cabana Balea Lac is OK, though prices are higher than most places in Romania. I’d recommend bringing your own food if you don’t want to overpay for mediocre food. However, it was nice to have a drink here after the hike.
6. Give Yourself at Least 6 Hours to Complete the Drive (Round-Trip)
If you’re driving the Transfagarasan from end-to-end and back, allot at least six hours. Time strictly behind the wheel is around 2.5 hours each way, but with stops for pictures and a meal, it will take at least half a day. If you’re planning on doing a hike, it’s going to be more of a full-day trip.
I’d still encourage setting aside a full day for the road trip — chances are you’ll want more time than expected to appreciate the mountain scenery.
7. Weather Can Change Quickly: Morning Is Your Best Chance for Clear Skies
Weather is totally unpredictable in these parts, especially as you get higher. On both of my days on the Transfagarasan, clear skies made way for downpours within 30 minutes or so.
Wear waterproof clothing, be careful when driving, and bring warm clothes. It rarely gets above 20C or 70F when you’re up around Balea Lake, even in the summer months.
The sun tends to be out high in the mountains before noon. Do your best to get on the road by mid-morning, not only to avoid foggy weather, but to beat the crowd if you’re traveling during peak season or on the weekend.
I’d also encourage driving the Transfagarasan on a weekday if your Transylvania itinerary allows. Many Romanians make it a day trip on the weekends, and it’s nice to have the road to yourself.
8. The Transfagarasan Is a Perfect Day Trip From Sibiu or Brasov
Typically, travelers make trek the Transfagarasan from nearby Sibiu or Brasov.
Transfagarasan is easiest as a day trip from Sibiu, since the road begins less than 45 minutes from the city.
It’s also a doable day trip from Brasov, with the base of the road (from the north) being about 90 minutes away. Adding the Transfagarasan as a day trip while traveling from Brasov to Sibiu is, in my opinion, the most sensible option.
An alternative is using the Transfagarasan to start your journey back to Bucharest from Transylvania. It’s about two hours to Bucharest from the south-end of the Transfagarasan.
9. Accommodation in the Area Is Limited – Book Early for an Overnight Stay
I stayed overnight in the village of Arpasu de Sus just near the north-end of the Transfagarasan. This made it super easy to explore for two days.
Accommodation options in the surrounding mountains are limited. Most are around Balea Lake, though they tend to be very expensive. Around Poenari Citadel on the south-side of the road you’ll find some places to stay as well.
I’d encourage exploring and booking your lodging a few months in advance. Because the Transfagarasan is only open for a few months, places fill up quickly.
Best Sights Along the Transfagarasan
There are a few common points of interest along the route, including:
- Balea Lake: A glacial lake at the highest point of the route
- Capra Lake: A glacial lake that requires a hike to reach (from Balea Lake)
- Balea Tunnel: The longest tunnel in Romania, just behind the lake
- Lake Vidraru: A reservoir with limited access, surrounding by plenty of bears
- Transfagarasan Treehouse Village: A restaurant + lodge next to Lake Vidraru (solid food, but pricey)
- Poenari Citadel: A centuries-old fortress, accessible to visitors, just south of Lake Vidraru
- Castelul Dracula Transfagarasan: A museum and castle dedicated to Vlad the Impaler (Dracula)
Transportation to the Transfagarasan
As mentioned, this is a perfect day trip from nearby cities like Brasov and Sibiu. If you’ve rented a car in Romania, it’s a breeze logistically.
If you don’t have a car, you’re going to have to do some planning to visit the Transfagarasan. You’ll find no shortage of group tours that leave from Brasov and Sibiu for pretty cheap.
I’d recommend finding a private tour guide. This will allow you complete flexibility both before and during your drive. With no shortage of glorious viewpoints, that will be nice to have.
Transfagarasan FAQs
When is the Transfagarasan open?
The Transfagarasan is typically open from June to October, though it varies each year based on snowpack and road conditions.
How long is the Transfagarasan?
The Transfagarasan is 90 kilometers (56 miles) long.
Where is Transfagarasan?
The Transfagarasan is located in Central Romania, cutting through the Fagaras range of the Carpathian Mountains. The north-end of the road lies in between the Transylvanian cities of Sibiu and Brasov, while the south-end is close to Curtea de Arges.
Can I visit Transfagarasan without a car?
Yes, it’s possible to explore the Transfagarasan without a car. The best way to do so is by taking a guided private tour or group tour from Sibiu or Brasov.
Will I see bears along the Transfagarasan?
There’s a very high probability that you’ll see bears along the Transfagarasan. Most bears are located south of the Balea Tunnel in the area surrounding Lake Vidraru.
What is the highest road in Romania?
The Transalpina is the highest road in Romania, reaching an elevation of 2,145 meters or 6,900 feet. The nearby Transfagarasan reaches an elevation of 2,042 meters (6,699 feet).
Where can I stay along the Transfagarasan?
Accommodation along the Transfagarasan is a bit limited. However, there are plenty of places to stay at the north-end of the road near the town of Cartisoara, along with several options on the south-end around Castelul Dracula Transfagarasan in the Arefu municipality.
The main options around Balea Lake are Cabana Balea Lac and the Ice Hotel (only open in winter). Hotel Capra and Complex Balea are two more options right in the heart of the mountains.
Finally, there are a handful of options around Lake Vidraru, such as Hotel Posada Vidraru or Wild Lake Village for a more upscale glamping experience.
Should I drive the Transfagarasan or Transalpina?
The Transfagarasan and Transalpina are two of the most scenic drives in all of Europe. Both contain graceful winding curves in wide-open valleys, making for some of the most postcard-worthy settings in Romania.
While there’s no wrong decision, most typically choose the Transfagarasan route. There are a few more sights to see, such as Balea Lake and Poenari Castle.
