When travelers visit Hungary, usually their only stop is Budapest, the magnificent capital and the only real bustling metropolis in the country. But while I did have a memorable week in Budapest, the highlight of my 10-day trip to Hungary was my visit to the small city of Eger.
What I’d initially planned as a day trip to Eger turned into a two-night stay, making for one of the rare occasions I ditched an itinerary and extended a stay.
Continue reading to find out why this city proved so irresistible and why it’s not only a great day trip from Budapest, but one of the best places to visit in Hungary overall.
Where Is Eger?
Eger is nestled in the foothills of the Matra mountain range in Northeast Hungary. The city of just under 50,000 residents is not far from the Slovakian border and close to the country’s 3rd-largest city, Miskolc. However, locals view Eger as the real gem of the region, despite its relatively small population.
What’s the Story Behind Eger?
It may seem random that such a small city in a fairly rural region of Hungary is such a great place to visit. But that could be attributed to the city’s unique history. In previous centuries, Eger was ruled by the Mongols, Turks, and Habsburgs. Fortunately, most of the town was spared from bombardment during World War II.
This array of different influences and cultures, plus the city being well-preserved, gives it a lot of character, particularly in its architecture.
Nowadays, Eger is the hub of the Hungarian wine region and is home to one of the largest private universities in the country, Eszterházy Károly Catholic University. The university and its 8,000+ students pump some energy into the atmosphere.
What Is There to Do in Eger?
While Eger isn’t even one of the 10-largest cities in Hungary, it’s ideal to visit because of the variety of attractions. There are things to do in Eger no matter what you value when you travel, whether it be good wine, history, architecture, or the outdoors.
From my experience, below are the best things to do when visiting Eger.
Wander the Historic Old Town Surrounding Dobo Square
The best aspect of Eger, in my opinion, is how perfectly sized it is for visitors. The historic city centre is surprisingly large and well-kept for a city of its size but remains small enough to experience fully in two days.
The atmosphere in Dobo Square, the main square, strikes the right balance between relaxed and lively. Overall, Eger gets few visitors aside from neighboring countries like Slovakia and Poland, so the city has a really traditional, authentic feeling. Quite the contrast from Budapest, which can be overrun by tourists in high season and on the weekends.
There’s also a very good food scene in Eger in and around Dobo Square, with Michelin-star restaurant Macok leading the way, but other restaurants offering Hungarian and Italian cuisine such as Palacsintavar Etterem, Butykos Kisvendéglő, Bar Italia, and Itt es Most proved fantastic as well. Hungarians love their Italian food!
There are plenty of chilled out cafes to hang out in too, including my favorite, F.R.I.E.N.D.S-themed cafe Central Park, which is just a one-minute walk from Dobo Square on one of Eger’s famous narrow streets.
Roam the Medieval Castle
The castle above the town was built in the 13th century and is known for allowing the underdog locals to successfully repel an attack by the Turks in 1552. While the castle has sustained heavy structural damage in various battles and invasions since, it still impressively looms over the town square.
It’s an easy 5-minute walk to the top of Eger Castle from the town square, yet the views overlooking the city from the top are pretty serene. It’s a popular spot for locals to hang out in the evening as well.
Walk Up the Northernmost Minaret in the World
Eger Minaret stands out from the rest of the tall structures in the city due to its unusual placement in a non-Muslim country. The minaret, which served as a Muslim call to prayer, stands 40 meters tall, and though absolutely tiny inside, you can actually trek to the top in what was literally the narrowest staircase I’ve ever walked up!
This isn’t for someone afraid of heights considering the journey up isn’t the only slightly terrifying part. The 360-degree balcony at the top is insanely small, with only a 5-foot metal barricade dividing you from what’s below! However, for those looking for something different, it’s most definitely worth the small fee ($0.50) to walk up.
Visit Bolyki Winery
Once Communism in Hungary came to an end in 1989, the government began funneling resources toward building out Eger and surrounding Heves County as the nation’s prime wine-making region due to its favorable climate and terrain on the hill slopes.
Since then, formerly lackluster government-owned vineyards have been replaced by much-improved privately owned wineries, one of which is Bolyki Winery, just a 10-minute drive from the city center.
Bolyki grows and cultivates fantastic wine, in particular the region’s famous Bikavér (“Bull’s Blood”), a highly flavorful red wine.
We signed up for the most lavish experience at Bolyki, which included 10 different wine tastings, a full lunch, and the tour of the property for a measly $25 USD per person! It was a fantastic experience, particularly because our guide was so friendly and such a good conversationalist.
Aside from the wine itself, Bolyki has a few unique features such as its cellars being located behind massive rock formations that tower just outside the main entrance. Its dining halls, carved into the mountain, look like something straight out of Game of Thrones and will make you wish you could stay and host an extravagant gathering with your friends.
Experience the Valley of Beautiful Woman
Continuing on the theme of wine, the Valley of the Beautiful Woman is an incredibly charming setting that exudes the importance of wine in the region. You’ll enter via a two-lane road that’s tucked in a valley surrounded by numerous vineyards. Wine bars hug the edge of each side of the street.
Just like barhopping, you can cellar-hop and try all the local wines, all within walking distance of each other.
Red wine and white wine are both produced in the region. No matter your preference, there will be plenty of options.
Make Time for a Morning Visit to the Market Hall
Every morning, locals gather to buy and sell fruits, vegetables, meats and pastries at the Eger Market Hall. It’s much more bustling than you might think, given the vibe around most of the city is generally so laid back.
If you’re looking to purchase some goods, you’ll get great deals. But it’s still worth a visit if not.
Since very few of these people will speak English, the Eger market exudes more authenticity than what you might experience in Budapest’s most trendy districts that are filled with people and travelers who all speak English.
Visit Nearby Bukki National Park
If you’re the outdoorsy type, you won’t have to venture far from Eger to fill your needs. Bukki National Park is one of the more scenic parks in all of Hungary as its home to essentially the only legitimate mountain range in the country. Most of the main attractions are only a 30 to 45-minute drive from the city centre.
It’s fantastic for hiking and kayaking, and you can’t miss the village of Lillafured, probably the most picturesque area within the park. It’s home to a 100+ year-old holiday resort on the shores of a small lake nestled in a valley.
If you plan to visit, note that you’ll likely need a car (or driver) to get you around. While the bus system is generally good across Hungary, most of the hikes and jump-off points for other activities are in pretty rural areas, so it might be risky to rely on public transportation.
How Many Days Do You Need in Eger?
If you’re going to spend half a day or more doing wine-related activities or you’re venturing outside of the city to explore the outdoors or perhaps a nearby spa, I’d recommend at least two full days and nights in Eger to get the most holistic experience. Most people visit Eger for just one day or night, but it should be viewed as more than just a day trip than Budapest, but a destination worth prioritizing on its own.
How Do You Get to Eger from Budapest?
Getting to Eger from Budapest is easy. The journey takes just about two hours each way and trains run all day on the hour from Budapest’s Keleti station.
It can be difficult to get to Eger without a car if you’re coming from somewhere other than Budapest, so do take that into account. Given the lack of other large tourist hubs near Eger, however, the vast majority of travelers arrive from Budapest.
Tips Before Visiting Eger
Prior to arriving in Eger, know these few tips to ensure you have the best-possible experience:
- Learn important Hungarian words and a few phrases: Learn a few important Hungarian words and phrases. Residents of Eger, unlike those in Budapest, generally don’t speak much English. They’ll appreciate the effort and open up more!
- Download the Eger City Taxi App: There’s no Uber, Lyft, or Bolt in Eger. So aside from walking or taking the bus, the only way to get around is by local taxi. If you’re visiting a winery, for example, you’ll likely have to use this app. It’s easy to use and will help you quickly order a taxi which will likely arrive in no more than 5 or 10 minutes.
- Walk to the Center from the Train Station: It’s a 15 or 20-minute walk to the city centre from the train station. While a taxi can save some time, it’s a really nice walk through the main city park and along the Eger Stream. This is a good introduction to the low-key, peaceful life in Eger.
In-Summary: Why You Should Visit Eger
Unless you’re a real veteran traveler, there’s a slim chance Eger has come across your radar in the past. However, that’s precisely why Eger is an ideal example of an undiscovered gem across Europe.
In a time when so many European cities and nations are battling overtourism, there’s no better opportunity to seek out areas that have their arms wide open to tourists rather than the places pushing visitors away.
Looking for another Budapest day trip idea? Check out this itinerary to the charming riverside town of Szentendre.
